There is no significant document available concerning the ancient history, literature and culture, and traditions, religion and social life of Baltistan. We find the first mention of Baltistan in the Chinese chronicles that talk of an attack on Tibet in 757 AD. At that time, Baltistan was a part of Tibet. However, archeological sites, folk songs, tales that have been passed on from generation to generation and penned documents are some vehicles that take us into the history of Baltistan. Broadly speaking, this history can be divided into three phases: The first phase begins from the dawn of human civilization in Baltistan till 1841. The Dogra rule in Baltistan - from 1941-August 13, 1948. The struggle for independence in Baltistan and its annexation with Pakistan.
The most powerful ruler of this time was Shakar (or Shukar) Rygyayul-fu (in Balti language, Rygyayul-fu means emperor), who ruled till 1437. With Shigari Kalan (located near the present day city of Skardu) his capital, he ruled over the whole of Skardu valley. Even today, the ruins of the great palaces of the Shakar (or Shukar) family can be seen on a mound in Moza Shigari Kalan, about four miles to the south of modern Skardu. They are known by the name of Api Cho Shakar (or Shukar) kay Mahal. After Shakar (or Shukar) Rygyayul-fu, his son, Ghota Chosangay, became the ruler of Skardu. Bugha (1490 - 1515 AD), his son, established the city of Skardu in the fifteenth century.
The Maqpons is the most famous dynasty that ruled over Skardu. In the battle for supremacy with neighboring kingdoms, the Maqpons remained dominant throughout. A clue to their pomp and power can be gathered from the folk songs of the area, in which they are raised to the stature of the descendents of gods. Indeed, it would not be exaggeration to say that the glorious adventures and victories of the Maqpons assigned them a significant place in the history of Baltistan; the history of Baltistan is the history of the rise and fall of the Maqpons.
Ali Sher Khan Anchan married Mindoq Rygyayulfu, the daughter of Jamiang Namagiyal, the ruler of Ladakh. This wise woman was called Gul Khatoon. While expanding the boundaries of his kingdom, Ali Sher Khan Anchan also worked for the progress of his people. These development projects include the building of Sadpara dam, about six miles from Skardu. With the passage of time, this dam has turned into a lake, which largely attracts foreign tourists.
From 1635 to 1660, Adam Khan, the son of Ali Sher Khan Anchan, ruled Skardu after his father. The last autonomous ruler of Skardu, Maqpon Ahmed Shah, was in power from 1800 to 1840. At this time, Haider Khan ruled the valley of Shigar and Mehdi Khan ruled Khaploo. Daulat Khatoon, the second wife of Maqpon Ahmed Shah, was the sister of Haider Khan. This influential queen conspired with the elders of Skardu to nominate Mohammad Ali Shah, her own son, as the next king, instead of Mohammad Shah, the eldest son of Maqpon Ahmed Shah. This selfishness of Daulat Khatoon led to bad blood in the Maqpon family.
To seek help, Mohammad Shah, the eldest son of Maqpon Ahmed Shah, went to Kashmir to seek help from Colonel Maan Singh, who was subedar there. Maan Singh recommended him to go to Lahore and consult Ranjeet Singh. Till then, Ranjeet Singh had already ordered Gulab Singh, the Raja of Kashmir, to invade Ladakh. So he handed Mohammad Shah over to Gulab Shah. Till then, Zorawar Singh Dogra, the famous general of Gulab Singh, had started off for Ladakh with an army. Mohammad Shah met Zorawar Singh at Suru and went to Ladakh with him. After conquering Ladakh, Zorawar Singh handed Mohammad Shah to Rygyayulfu Tandoop Namgeer of Ladakh and ordered that he be kept at Ladakh so that aid may be provided to him.
But while Mohammad Shah was at Suru, his maternal uncle met Zorawar Singh and assuring him their assistance, invited him to attack Baltistan. Ahmed Shah was aware of the conspiracy against him. To counteract the expected attack, he made defense arrangements, in the valleys of Shayooq and Sindh, the two ways to Baltistan from Ladakh. In the early months of 1840, Zorawar Singh headed towards Skardu from Shayooq valley as well as from Sindh valley, with his forces concentrated on the route from Kargil to Skardu. In the valleys of Shayooq, the armies of Zorawar Singh had to confront great resistance. Owing to the bunkers of Ahmed Shah’s armies in the Sindh Valley, the Dogra armies could not cross the River Indus. At this point, Ali Sher Khan, the wali (governor) of Kharmang, came to their rescue. With the help of the local people, he provided them a bridge over River Indus in extreme cold. The armies of Ahmed Shah were not expecting this; the Dogra army crossed the bridge and suddenly attacked the opponent.
The armies of Ahmed Shah had to retreat, and he had to restrict himself and his family on the Kharfocho fort neat Skardu. Even after a fifteen-day siege, the Dogra army could not capture the fort. Finally, Ahmed Shah fell a prey to the deception of Ali Sher Khan and surrendered. In 1841, the wali of Shigar, Raja Haider Khan, revolted against the Dogra rule. The rebel was arrested after a bloody battle. Hence, from 1841 to 1948, Baltistan was enslaved by the Dogars; this being the darkest era in the history of Baltistan.
On March 16, 1846, the British government and Gulab Singh, the Maharaja of Kashmir, signed the treaty of Amritsir. According to it, the British government sold the area from Kashmir to the western bank of River Indus to Gulab Singh for a meager amount of Rs. 75,000. Gilgit was also included in this area. But Gulab Singh violated the treaty and in 1852, proceeded to capture the areas on the west of River Indus. The Dogra army faced a crushing defeat in the hands of Raja Gohar Aman of Yasin. And many such attempts of Gulab Singh failed thus. In 1849, the Sikh rule came to an end and Punjab went under the control of the British.
When, in 1947, the news of the struggle for Pakistan reached Baltistan, the Muslims of the area fully supported it. Baltistan was caught in a struggle for independence after November 1, 1947, when Gilgit was freed from Dogra rule. It took the brave people of Baltistan a year to push out the Dogras from their land forever. On January 1, 1949, the cease-fire in Kashmir also put an end to the war between Baltistan and the Dogars.
The Maqpons is the most famous dynasty that ruled over Skardu. In the battle for supremacy with neighboring kingdoms, the Maqpons remained dominant throughout. A clue to their pomp and power can be gathered from the folk songs of the area, in which they are raised to the stature of the descendents of gods. Indeed, it would not be exaggeration to say that the glorious adventures and victories of the Maqpons assigned them a significant place in the history of Baltistan; the history of Baltistan is the history of the rise and fall of the Maqpons.
The Maqpons ruled Baltistan for 115 years, from 1565-1680. Amongst these, the name of Ali Sher Khan Anchan will always remain alive. (In Balti language, Anchan means strong). His rule, from 1580 to 1624, is the golden age in the history of Skardu-Baltistan. This great ruler conquered the areas from Ladakh to Chitral. Consequently, from 1600 to 1710, Baltistan spread from Mansroar, a lake in Tibet, to the valley of Kalash in the east-west, and from the Karakoram mountain range in the extreme north to the northern boundaries of the present day Kohistan Hazara in the north-south.
Ali Sher Khan Anchan married Mindoq Rygyayulfu, the daughter of Jamiang Namagiyal, the ruler of Ladakh. This wise woman was called Gul Khatoon. While expanding the boundaries of his kingdom, Ali Sher Khan Anchan also worked for the progress of his people. These development projects include the building of Sadpara dam, about six miles from Skardu. With the passage of time, this dam has turned into a lake, which largely attracts foreign tourists.
From 1635 to 1660, Adam Khan, the son of Ali Sher Khan Anchan, ruled Skardu after his father. The last autonomous ruler of Skardu, Maqpon Ahmed Shah, was in power from 1800 to 1840. At this time, Haider Khan ruled the valley of Shigar and Mehdi Khan ruled Khaploo. Daulat Khatoon, the second wife of Maqpon Ahmed Shah, was the sister of Haider Khan. This influential queen conspired with the elders of Skardu to nominate Mohammad Ali Shah, her own son, as the next king, instead of Mohammad Shah, the eldest son of Maqpon Ahmed Shah. This selfishness of Daulat Khatoon led to bad blood in the Maqpon family.
To seek help, Mohammad Shah, the eldest son of Maqpon Ahmed Shah, went to Kashmir to seek help from Colonel Maan Singh, who was subedar there. Maan Singh recommended him to go to Lahore and consult Ranjeet Singh. Till then, Ranjeet Singh had already ordered Gulab Singh, the Raja of Kashmir, to invade Ladakh. So he handed Mohammad Shah over to Gulab Shah. Till then, Zorawar Singh Dogra, the famous general of Gulab Singh, had started off for Ladakh with an army. Mohammad Shah met Zorawar Singh at Suru and went to Ladakh with him. After conquering Ladakh, Zorawar Singh handed Mohammad Shah to Rygyayulfu Tandoop Namgeer of Ladakh and ordered that he be kept at Ladakh so that aid may be provided to him.
But while Mohammad Shah was at Suru, his maternal uncle met Zorawar Singh and assuring him their assistance, invited him to attack Baltistan. Ahmed Shah was aware of the conspiracy against him. To counteract the expected attack, he made defense arrangements, in the valleys of Shayooq and Sindh, the two ways to Baltistan from Ladakh. In the early months of 1840, Zorawar Singh headed towards Skardu from Shayooq valley as well as from Sindh valley, with his forces concentrated on the route from Kargil to Skardu. In the valleys of Shayooq, the armies of Zorawar Singh had to confront great resistance. Owing to the bunkers of Ahmed Shah’s armies in the Sindh Valley, the Dogra armies could not cross the River Indus. At this point, Ali Sher Khan, the wali (governor) of Kharmang, came to their rescue. With the help of the local people, he provided them a bridge over River Indus in extreme cold. The armies of Ahmed Shah were not expecting this; the Dogra army crossed the bridge and suddenly attacked the opponent.
The armies of Ahmed Shah had to retreat, and he had to restrict himself and his family on the Kharfocho fort neat Skardu. Even after a fifteen-day siege, the Dogra army could not capture the fort. Finally, Ahmed Shah fell a prey to the deception of Ali Sher Khan and surrendered. In 1841, the wali of Shigar, Raja Haider Khan, revolted against the Dogra rule. The rebel was arrested after a bloody battle. Hence, from 1841 to 1948, Baltistan was enslaved by the Dogars; this being the darkest era in the history of Baltistan.
On March 16, 1846, the British government and Gulab Singh, the Maharaja of Kashmir, signed the treaty of Amritsir. According to it, the British government sold the area from Kashmir to the western bank of River Indus to Gulab Singh for a meager amount of Rs. 75,000. Gilgit was also included in this area. But Gulab Singh violated the treaty and in 1852, proceeded to capture the areas on the west of River Indus. The Dogra army faced a crushing defeat in the hands of Raja Gohar Aman of Yasin. And many such attempts of Gulab Singh failed thus. In 1849, the Sikh rule came to an end and Punjab went under the control of the British.
When, in 1947, the news of the struggle for Pakistan reached Baltistan, the Muslims of the area fully supported it. Baltistan was caught in a struggle for independence after November 1, 1947, when Gilgit was freed from Dogra rule. It took the brave people of Baltistan a year to push out the Dogras from their land forever. On January 1, 1949, the cease-fire in Kashmir also put an end to the war between Baltistan and the Dogars.
